Hiking from Asahidake Onsen to Kurodake Refuge and back: Hike through Hokkaido’s highest peaks

Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, is famous for its breathtaking landscapes, volcanoes and ancient history. Among the many outdoor adventures it offers, hiking from Asahidake Onsen to Kurodake Refuge is one of my favorites. Expect unwordly views and a big sense of accomplishment (and relief) when you hike to Asahidake peak, the highest mountain of Hokkaido. This two day hike will lead you volcanic landscapes you can’t even imagine, natural hotsprings coming from smoking volcanoes and a 100 year old hut. And best of all, after the hike you can relax your tired body in the amazing Onsen of Asahidake or Sounkyo. Read more in my 2024 guide to Hokkaido’s best two day hike: Asahidake to Kurodake traverse.

The Route and Terrain

The hike starts at Asahidake onsen, a popular hot spring resort nestled at the base of Mount Asahidake. Whereas it’s also possible to start the hike from Sounkyo, this will require you to spend a night in Asahidake which means going down quite a bit. So for those coming from Sapporo, I’d say start your hike in Asahidake.

You can either start your journey from your hotel and walk up through the forest, or skip this first part and start at the beautiful meadows around the ropeway station, which can be accessed by a scenic gondola ride. This will save you about 1,5-2h of walking, but will cost you about 2000 yen in the hiking season (1400 yen off season).

As you set foot on the trail, you’ll immediately notice the change in landscape, transitioning from lush greenery to rocky paths and as soon as you walk toward the Asahidake peak, you’ll see (and smell and hear!) the steam coming from inside the mountain. It’s truly an incredibly sight, accompanied by a feeling of surrending to the elements. But this is only the beginning..

The trail starts off relatively steep, when hiking up towards Asahidake peak. It’s a climb, but you’ll know it gets better after you’ve concured this mountain. The challenging terrain requires a good level of physical fitness and a bit of hiking experience, as sections can be steep and uneven. Proper hiking gear, sturdy footwear, and ample water and snacks are essential for this adventure.

The hardest part comes after climbing up Asahidake, as you will need to go down a very steep trail. This trail comes with a rope though, so take it slow and hold on tight. After this part it’s mostly just a bit up and down and quite a leasurly walk.

On the first day the hike will take you to Mount Mamiya, Mount Nakadake, Mount Hokuchin if you have time, to Mount Kurodake/Kurodake refuge. This trail is about 11km long (without Kurodake) and takes about 4-5h (without breaks). Find my route here on Strava.

Reaching Kurodake Refuge

After hours of hiking, you’ll finally reach the Kurodake Refuge, a mountain hut and campsite perched at an altitude of around 1,960 meters. The refuge provides shelter, basic accommodations, and some snacks for weary hikers. Resting here allows you to enjoy a well-deserved break while surrounded by the beauty of the alpine landscape. But bring your own things, because this 100-year-old hut is very basic. Make sure to bring a sleeping bag (even in peak summer), food, and something to filter your water (or buy water there). The evening crowds and hut caretakers are all avid hikers, which provides for a great mountain experience. And in the morning, if you get up really early, you can go up Mount Keigetsu to see the sunrise in the east. Heat up with the first sunrays of the day before you make your breakfast and pack your things.

The second day

The second day will take you to the other side of the caldera, along the peak of Mount Hokkai, Mount Matsuda, Mount Mamiya, Nakadake Onsen and to Asahidake onsen. If you walk all the way down to Asahidake Onsen the hike is about 17 km long and will take about 6-7 hours to complete (without breaks). Find the second day route here.

Spectacular Scenery

One of the highlights of this hike is the ever-changing scenery. The trail takes you through diverse terrains, including dense forests, meadows full of colorful flowers, rocky slopes and smoking volcanoes. As you ascend, the volcanic area unfolds, revealing the beauty of the Daisetsuzan National Park.

Some notable points along the trail are:

• The Sugatami Pond, a reflective body of water that mirrors the surrounding peaks. The pond offers a serene setting for hikers to pause, take photos, and soak in the tranquility of the mountains.
• The toxic caldera, a huge caldera, full of water and steam and surrounded by many peaks. You’ll have great views of it as you get closer to Kurodake refuge.
• The Nakadake hotsprings which you’ll encounter on your way back to Asahidake. The high temperature water mixes with the river water and makes for a wonderful bath to soak your feet (or even your whole body if you dare).

Tips for a Successful Hike

1. Check Weather Conditions: Hokkaido’s weather can be unpredictable, so it’s crucial to check the forecast before setting out. Sudden changes in weather can impact visibility and safety. It’s always good to ask at your accommodation as well. I was lucky, but the people arriving the next day had less luck and had to make it a one day hike. Luckily the area boasts many trails so you can just hike for a day, come back to the hotel, and hike a different route the next day.
2. Start Early: Begin your hike early in the morning to make the most of daylight hours and avoid potential afternoon storms.
3. Be informed about the bear situation: Ask for the latest bear information at the Asahidake tourist information office and bring a bear bell just in case (available at Daiso). Other tips are to bring bear spray, make noise while you hike (I turned on my phone with a podcast when I was alone in the forest for a long time) and clap your hands. Although none of this will guarantee a bear free hike.
4. Pack Essentials: Along with hiking essentials, bring extra layers to combat temperature changes at higher altitudes. Definitely bring rain clothes because the weather can change quickly.
5. Stay Hydrated: Carry enough water and snacks to stay hydrated and energized throughout the hike. There are not water point along the way and on a hot day you can easily drink a liter in a couple of hours.
6. Leave No Trace: Practice responsible hiking by packing out all your trash and minimizing your impact on the environment. Don’t litter, don’t take things, don’t change the area.

How to get there

To get to Asahidake you can either rent a car, or take the train or bus from Sapporo to Asahikawa and then a bus from Asahikawa to Asahidake. The bus leaves 3 times an hour, takes just under 1,5 hours and costs around 1300 yen. For more information check the Asahidake visitor centre website.

Where to stay

There are not many places to stay in Asahidake, and the only affordable one is K’s House. So make sure to check if they have availability. The hostel is really nice, has a big kitchen, an Onsen and beautiful rooms. I really enjoyed my stay there and even extended with two nights.

In Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed my 2024 guide to Hokkaido’s best two day hike: Asahidake to Kurodake traverse. Hiking from Asahidake Onsen to Kurodake Refuge was one of my best adventures in Japan. I felt immersed in the elements, was amazed by the landscapes and even started liking the never-ending sulfur smell. It’s a challenging journey but as you sit down at Kurodake Refuge, surrounded by the grandeur of the mountains, you’ll gain a deep appreciation for the raw beauty that Hokkaido has to offer. 1000% definitely recommend :).